Riad Dar Kleta: Marrakech Stay for Rest and Inspiration

Riad Dar Kleta

Stepping from a tunnel of the Medina into a passageway to a massive door… crossing the threshold into a lush courtyard garden flanked with singing birds… climbing the spiral staircase to three levels of heaven.  Exploring Riad Dar Kleta is a magical adventure.  Being inspired by the creativity of its owners, Julien and Francoise Gaumont, who treat guests like family, is unforgettable.

My friend, Kate, and I were greeted with mint tea when we arrived, asked to name whatever Moroccan dishes we wished to have for dinner, and told to relax. “You are home,” said Julien.

IMG_5798
IMG_5964
IMG_5807 (1)
So many choices… to sprawl on the lush, shaded couches of burnt orange and earth tones overlooking the courtyard, to nap on wine-colored sofas by a cacti garden, to wind up the second spiral staircase to  loungers for watching the sky change colors at sunset.
IMG_5829 (1)
IMG_5838
IMG_5839
IMG_5845
IMG_5846
IMG_5841

IMG_5817

Our room had a view of the garden and touches that made it welcoming.


IMG_7890
IMG_5823
IMG_5908
IMG_5914
The night was a little cool for dinner on the rooftop–unusual for June in Morocco–so we were served in the beautiful salon below. We sat down to a refreshing drink before dinner, wine, and a delicious meal prepared that afternoon from local, fresh ingredients.
IMG_5932
IMG_6812

Julien and Francoise unveiled the tagines with traditional French-Moroccan flair. Photo credit: Kate Woods of Moroccobespoke


IMG_5934 (1)

My Aussie friend Kate


The lamb and prune and vegetable tagines were wonderful, as was the fresh mango and cherries that followed. The next morning we enjoyed breakfast in the courtyard. Francoise had made the homemade orange and strawberry jams.
 

IMG_7948
IMG_5963
Francoise left her career as a nurse and Julien as a concierge on Oléron, an island off the west coast of France where they lived nine years. They fell in love with Marrakesh, as did their daughter, Lila, on holidays in Morocco.  Now fifteen, Lila told her parents when younger that Moroccan adults notice and speak first to children. Loving the attention, she turned down a trip to the beach in Essaouira with them, preferring instead to stay behind with the Moroccan ladies working at the hotel.  She now loves attending school in Marrakesh.
For Francoise, it was a natural move as well. Her parents were French expats who had moved  to Casablanca for her grandfather’s health and there she was born. She’d lived in Morocco until she was nine. The first trip back was with Julien nine years ago when she told him it felt like home. Now hotel owners, the couple rents two rooms of their home to guests, making an intimate experience –one reason John Brunton named Riad Dar Kleta in The Guardian as a Top Ten place to stay in Marrakech.  In Creuse, they still have a family home and visit their four older children and  nine grandchildren living in France.
The couple is following another dream. In addition to tag-teaming as managers of Riad Matham and Riad Dar Kleta, three years ago they  became designers.  Their chic French style and love for Moroccan vintage textiles led to their creating furniture, clothing, and handbags sold in their hip boutique, Bazarkech , located in the shops below medina landmark, Terrasse des épices. Kate and I visited their shop supported by tourists, the community, and fans afar.  They shipped locally made stools upholstered in their fabrics as far as to a restaurant in St. Barts in the Caribbean.
IMG_5953

When I told  Francoise she looks too young to be a grandmother, she shrugged, smiled, and said, “Age does not matter, right?”


IMG_5905

“We love this country. We love the Medina. For us, Marrakesh is the Medina,” says Julien of their new` home.


IMG_5801

Francoise’s hatpin collection



IMG_4439
IMG_5639
IMG_5929

Kate, who lives in Marrakesh, too, and Francoise talk local hair dressers.


IMG_5904
IMG_5823
IMG_7890
 

It was a great stay. I left inspired by new friends–Francoise and Julien who are beautiful examples of embracing new, exciting seasons of life–and their cool cats who know how to relax.
Thank you to Riad Dar Kleta for a peaceful haven. As always, the opinions here are my own.
 

Glamour on Board: Titanic Fashion at Biltmore Estate

IMG_4893 (2)

Travel Fix and Titanic Fashion at The Biltmore


Biltmore Estate

Perfect place for a King of the World Fly Photo


Climb aboard The Biltmore! You have until May 13, 2018 to experience Glamour on Board: Fashion from  Titanic the Movie , the maiden voyage of the first large-scale costume exhibit from the iconic film that won 11 Oscars including Best Costume Design.  No location could be more fitting for simulating a first-class passage on luxury liners, “Floating Palaces” of the early 20th century.
On this ultimate girl getaway, my friend, Sally, and I channeled-for- a- day lives of patrons of White Star Line ships: Rose DeWitt Bukater, movie heroine, and Edith Dresser Vanderbilt, Mistress of Biltmore. Edith’s love story with George Washington Vanderbilt II  was truly “A Transatlantic Courtship.” Their home, inspired by the Chateau de Blois in the Loire Valley in France, was constructed by George  from 1889-1895. While gorgeous in every season, The Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina is the perfect spring escape/road trip for romantics and history-lovers. This exhibit is also a marvelous Mother’s Day gift.
IMG_4890 (1)

With Biltmore as backdrop, I finally had a real-time reunion with Sally, best friend since we were five growing up in Kentucky. We both lived in Africa, though not at the same time, and love trading travel tales. She’s now in Virginia, and I’m in Nashville, so we met in the middle.


Thankfully, after spending winter in Paris, George, Edith and daughter Cornelia who were booked on Titanic’s first and only voyage cancelled a week before the ship sailed. They arrived home April 10 and learned two days later that 1517 people perished on The Titanic after hitting an iceberg. Edith wrote to a friend: “For no reason whatsoever we decided to sail on the Olympic and had only 18 hours to get ready in. We were homesick and felt we simply must get home, and changed our ship, as I say, at the 11th hour!”
George Vanderbilt's Hourglasses

Time for a beauty, adventure, relationship break at The Biltmore


Something for everyone, the movie was a collaboration of realism and romanticism. Director James Cameron explains in a 2014 TED Talk:  I went and pitched it to the studio. It was ‘Romeo And Juliet’ on a ship. It’s going to be this epic, romance, passionate film. Secretly, what I wanted to do was I wanted to dive to the real wreck of Titanic, and that’s why I made the movie.”  
Cameron spared no expense on authenticity–$200 million which was more than the budget that built the Titanic. Our Biltmore guide on the Premium Tour, Tom, said 20th Century Fox bought every gown they could find made around 1910. Costume Designer, Deborah Lynn Scott, used patterns and parts from vintage garments and some in pristine condition on extras. According to Vogue, Rose’s red “jump dress” (see below) was one of the seven most expensive dresses of all time, selling for $330,000. According to the Hollywood Reporter the beading on the gown took 1,000 hours to sew. When she accepted the Best Costume Award for Titanic she said that her two young daughters’ beauty was her inspiration. Her range is legendary. Design credits for other cult classic favorites include Back to the Future, About Last Night, Legends of the Fall, Transformers, and The Amazing Spider- Man 2. 
The exhibit immerses us in authentic Edwardian style–intricate beading and patterns; sumptuous velvets, satins, and chiffons; tailored suits. For me, reliving The Titanic up close and personal was a dream–vintage style worn on travel adventures and a love story transcending death. I have loved Kate and Jack (and Kate Winslet and Leo DiCaprio who played them) since first seeing the film twenty years ago with my grandmother and children, but learning about the adventurous, kindred spirits of the exhibit’s host family was a bonus. Before Edith married George, she had traveled to the Caribbean, Europe, and South America. George had been to 26 countries across Europe, Northern Africa and Asia. They were regular first class passengers on White Star Line, the company that owned Titanic, and brought back art, books, fashion, and other treasures from their travels. 
The Biltmore’s 250 rooms, 2.4 million cubic feet space is breathtaking and puts the massiveness of The Titanic in perspective. The ship had 416 first- class state rooms. In The Biltmore, costumes are displayed in context–fashion for each room’s function. Clothes indeed made the man (and woman and child). Characterizations were achieved through wardrobe.
Glamour Boards Titanic

This outfit was the designer’s favorite creation. When curators learned 20th Century Fox was making available costumes, they selected 50 consisting of over 650 items.


Rose Boards The Titanic

Rose makes her entrance onscreen from under this hat. The acorn on the hat pin is the Vanderbilt family symbol also seen at Breakers, their New York City Estate.


Glamour on Board at Biltmore

Rose’s “Jump Dress”–my favorite in the movie–is what she is wearing when she meets Jack. Though he persuades her not to commit suicide, tripping on the dress’s train almost causes her to fall to her death.


IMG_5096
IMG_4956

The exhibit inspired me to learn how to make beaded jewelry from Sally, something she does beautifully for her soul.


Biltmore Estate Library

George Vanderbilt personally chose 10,000 books for this library he shared with guests–half of his 22,000 volume collection of American and English fiction, world history, religion, philosophy, art, and architecture.


Biltmore library ceiling

Jack plays Rose’s guardian angel, saving her from jumping overboard. The Chariot of Aurora, painted in the 1720s by Italian artist Giovanni Pellegrini was originally in the Pisani Palace in Venice.


IMG_4952
IMG_4954
Rose's gown

In her suite on Titanic (Edith Vanderbilt’s bedroom at The Biltmore) Rose recovers from the scare of almost losing her life at sea. She’s then given the Heart of the Ocean by Cal.


Edith Vanderbilt's bedroom

Like other married couples of the Vanderbilts’ social class, Edith and George had separate bedrooms so maids could dress her and valets could dress him. Behind curtains is Edith’s walk-in closet. Her closets held 1,000 square feet of frocks.


IMG_4995

Cal, Kate’s fiance, wore the best even to bed


IMG_4994
George Vanderbilt's bedroom

In the mirror reflection in George Vanderbilt’s bedroom is his paw-footed tub cut from one piece of Italian marble. His walls were 22 carat gold. The mansion has 35 bedrooms and 43 bathrooms.


IMG_4931
Glamour on Board: Rose's Day Dress

The morning after Jack saved her, Rose looked at his drawings as they drew close. This was her dress on the promenade deck.


IMG_5090
IMG_4927

In the Downstairs Breakfast Room two Renoir paintings hang right of the fireplace. See George Vanderbilt: A Modern Art Collector.


IMG_4924
IMG_5089

Cal reveled in showing off his wealth–even by wearing shirts that buttoned up the back. This announced he had a valet that dressed him. I couldn’t help but notice the parallel between Cal and Fitzgerald’s Tom Buchanan, and how Leo DiCaprio as Jack and Jay Gatsby played the perfect foils to the obnoxious characters. I also fell in love with the pink etched champagne coupe glasses.


Costumes worn by Rose and her mother

Our guide pointed out the Victorian-style dress of Rose’s mother (heavy damask pattern like on wallpaper) contrasted to Rose’s more romantic, loose chiffon and silk dress.


IMG_4925
Glamour on Board Titanic at Biltmore

The Unsinkable Molly Brown (Kathy Bates) was snubbed for being nouveau riche as the daughter of Irish immigrants whose husband struck it rich in Colorado mines. Based on a historical hero, she forced the captain of her lifeboat to go back to save lives and later fought for women’s suffrage and labor rights.


 
IMG_4913

In the Biltmore’s Banquet Hall under the seven-story ceiling are costumes worn by Rose and Jack. Molly Brown loaned Jack one of her son’s tuxedos for the dinner thanking him for saving Rose.  Men wore white ties and tails to dinner; women wore evening gowns.


IMG_4920
IMG_4916
IMG_4923

The scale of this fireplace is in keeping with The Titanic’s enormous size. There are 65 fireplaces in the Biltmore.


IMG_4922

This 1916 Skinner pipe organ towers above the dining table which seats 38. The Vanderbilt family often ate by the fireplace 7-10 course meals. Five crystal wine glasses were set at each place for enjoying George’s wine collection.


IMG_4918

The Countess of Rothes helped 3rd class passengers onto the boats and raised money for those widowed and orphaned by the sinking of The Titanic.


IMG_4919
IMG_5028 (1)

Stairs lead to costumes displayed on the second and third floors.


IMG_4991

In the 2nd floor Living Hall, guests at The Biltmore would wait to be called to dinner in the ballroom by a gong below.


IMG_4992

These costumes were worn by John Jacob Astor IV and his new wife, Madeleine Talmage Force. John was 47 and his wife 18 when they married 3 years after he divorced his wife. Though he was the richest man on the Titanic, the couple was snubbed for the scandal. He, like most first-class males, did not survive for lack of lifeboats, but his wife did. When it was discovered she was pregnant, gossips softened toward her and her child.


IMG_4987
IMG_4980
IMG_4984
IMG_4982
IMG_4985
IMG_4990
Titanic dance downstairs

Jack slips Rose a note to meet him downstairs for a real party after the formal dinner. There he dances with a little girl and introduces her to his friends–immigrants and refugees. See this site on how The Titanic impacted US immigration and other historical facts.


IMG_5058

In the basement of the Biltmore were the maids’ quarters where 24/7 they awaited calls from the bell in the hall, including setting pins and returning balls (below) in the bowling alley. On the Titanic, first-class passengers had electric buzzers to summons 322 stewards and 22 stewardesses in addition to their personal valets and ladies’ maids. One of the kitchen maids survived not only the sinking of The Titanic but of two other ships on which she worked.


IMG_5046
IMG_5050
IMG_5053

The Biltmore pool was filled with cold mountain water. On board the Titanic the pool had heated salt water.


IMG_5003 (1)

When Cal’s spy reports that Rose was below deck, Cal threatens her over breakfast. Above is the Oak Sitting Room between Edith and George’s bedrooms where the Vanderbilts shared breakfast and Edith planned the day with her head housekeeper.


IMG_5001
IMG_5004
IMG_5106

This gorgeous piece has hidden panels for hiding treasures, such as the Heart of the Ocean necklace.


IMG_5105
Biltmore music room

In the Biltmore music room, completed in the 1970s, are church-going costumes. Rose attends with her mother and Cal after promising them both she won’t stray from their plans for her arranged marriage.


Music Room of Secrets

This room played a huge part in preserving National Treasures. See below. Also here are candlesticks made for Empresses Amalia and Maria Theresa of the Austrian Hapsburgs.


Just before moving to Morocco in 2014, I saw The Monuments Men starring George Clooney, Bill Murray, Cate Blanchett, and Matt Damon, based on  Robert Edsel’s book. Read here on the Biltmore blog more about the estate as proof of the premise of the film: “the importance of art and the lengths to which nations and individuals will go to either steal or save it.”
IMG_4958

In the Flemish tapestry gallery hangs a 1530s set, The Triumph of the Seven Virtues, where curators placed costumes from afternoon tea. When Rose sees a little girl forced to play a part Rose is no longer willing to play, she boldly chooses freedom as a virtue.


IMG_4960 (1)

Loved this form most because she looks relaxed.


IMG_4964
 
IMG_4962

Adore this look


IMG_4965

Wigs are made of watercolor paper


IMG_5033

After the tea scene, Rose is ready to fly from her cage. Below is the “fly” dress in a room that compliments its rich color.


IMG_5032
Glamour on Board

This robe Rose wears briefly before asking Jack to sketch her like one of his “French girls.”


IMG_5113

Our guide pointed out the frayed ties on the robe. Kate did several takes of the scene to unveil herself  picture perfect wearing only the necklace.


IMG_5040

Outside the bedroom where Rose posed on a chaise lounger is this painting, the last bought by George Vanderbilt before his death, of a Spanish woman on a couch.


IMG_5091

At this time, the Titanic hit the iceberg that cut into six of its sixteen watertight compartments. It was built to withstand four losing water,  but the blow was fatal for most of the passengers save the first class women and children.


IMG_5034

The last dress in which we see Rose is worn throughout the second half of the movie. There were many replicas made to film her in water in different scenes. The chiffon was chosen so it would float. The coat was a size 8–purposely too big for the actress to show her vulnerability.


IMG_5114

I have always loved backs of dresses more than any other feature–especially  when this beautiful.


IMG_4969

Rose’s mom dresses in high fashion to go into the boat,  complaining that seating etiquette by class isn’t being upheld. She is oblivious to the suffering of those who won’t be able to escape the sinking ship. Of the 48 lifeboats needed, only 20 were onboard and some of them were dropped during the panic only half-filled.


IMG_4970
IMG_5026

Ostrich feathers were in high demand in Edwardian wear.

When the Titanic sank, valuable cargo on board was a shipment of twelve cases of ostrich feathers insured for $2.3 million in today’s money.  In 1912 only diamonds were worth more by weight than feathers. Hats covered in feathers, even entire birds, were the rage. Ostrich feathers were exported from South Africa as were diamonds and gold.

IMG_5092

IMG_5094

Edith Vanderbilt painted by Giovanni Boldini


IMG_5016
IMG_5017
IMG_5018
IMG_5021
IMG_5024 (1)
IMG_5025 (2)
IMG_5014
IMG_5062

In the billiard room were costumes worn by Rose and Jack  in the final scene when they are reunited after death. Though they enter the grand ballroom together,  Jack is wearing the clothes he boarded the ship in–not a tuxedo. Rose is wearing an elegant but free flowing dress, clearly part of his world.


IMG_5063
IMG_5065
The Vanderbilt family’s love of learning moved them to support what is now Vanderbilt University. Likewise, opening the Biltmore to the public provided a portal to the past and future because, as Keats said: “A thing of beauty is a joy forever.”  Thanks to this exhibit, we can enjoy splendid, classic couture, elements of  style which designers continue to revive in modern fashion. More importantly, the The Titanic movie reminds us of what’s important in life and death. The story of Jack and Rose is timeless because underneath the face and form we wear for the world, we all want to our core to be treasured for our essence. For someone to say as Jack did to Rose:

Winning that ticket, Rose, was the best thing that ever happened to me… it brought me to you. And I’m thankful for that, Rose. I’m thankful. You must do me this honor. Promise me you’ll survive. That you won’t give up, no matter what happens, no matter how hopeless.

In the end, their story is our story. We want someone–friend, family, lover–who says, “You jump. I jump.” Whether hanging onto the bow of a sinking ship or flying high, we want at least one ride or die person in our lives.
 

Thank you to The Biltmore Estate for this unforgettable experience. As always, opinions here are my own.
 
 
 

Additional Gallery of Northern Portugal and Spain: Camino/Travel Inspiration

Print
Untitled design (1)

If you missed my article above which explains the gallery below, please read it HERE.

In seven days this Southern Girl Gone Global Goes Home.  After living in Morocco and The Dominican Republic for the last three years, I’m excited to return to Nashville–a city I love–where StyleBlueprint is bringing women together locally and globally.  Recently I described in the article above my adventure in Gorgeous Galicia with old friends, Moni and Ale, who I met in Music City years ago.  Today they teach English, host an Airbnb, and are El Camino de Santiago guides.  Below are additional photos of our time together in Portugal and Spain.
If you are interested in seeing this area for yourself, meeting new people, and doing the Camino with us in 2018, email me at cindylmccain1@gmail.com for more details.

Porto, Portugal

IMG_7580

View from our Airbnb in Portugal


IMG_7606
IMG_7608
IMG_7445
IMG_7550
IMG_7535
IMG_7546
IMG_9094
IMG_7484
IMG_7460
IMG_7471
IMG_7464
IMG_7502
IMG_7509
IMG_7512
IMG_7501
IMG_7507
IMG_7505
IMG_7493
IMG_7503
IMG_7504
IMG_7508
IMG_7496
IMG_7621
Version 2
IMG_7630
IMG_7627
IMG_9136
IMG_9149
IMG_7555
11647327_10153341361209034_828954491_n (1)

My girl, Moni, beach-loving soul sister, loved showing me around Portugal and her home, Galicia.


IMG_9107

After a hike down the beach and a long wait for lunch, it finally came.


IMG_9109

Served on my china pattern no less…seafood worth the wait.


IMG_9108
Version 2
Version 2
IMG_7607
IMG_7603
11653383_10153341361364034_18596219_n (1)

Galicia, Spain

IMG_7735
IMG_7737
IMG_9214
IMG_7756
IMG_7761
IMG_7759
IMG_7769
IMG_7768

IMG_7764

I so loved meeting Monica’s sweet sister, Loli, who treated us to amazing fresh seafood in La Guarda including my favourite dish, Octopus.



IMG_9217 (1)

Parador of BaionaIMG_9177

IMG_7705
IMG_7702
Version 2

IMG_9168

The Pinta


IMG_9164
IMG_9207
IMG_7704
IMG_7718
IMG_9157
IMG_7710
IMG_7716
IMG_9160
IMG_9200

Moni’s hometown, Vigo

IMG_7645
IMG_7651
IMG_7648
IMG_7649
Version 2
IMG_9154
IMG_9153
IMG_7918

IMG_7915

Monument of Spanish Civil War which I taught this year in the DR as we read Hemingway’s For Whom the Bell Tolls


IMG_7913
IMG_7912
IMG_7908
IMG_7907
IMG_7899
IMG_7898
(Below) Not to be missed next week, St. John’s Eve–story here. 
IMG_7672
IMG_9239

Loved meeting Moni’s friends, sisters Ana (left) and Susana


Version 2
11539786_10153341301554034_826321954_o
IMG_7789
IMG_7788
IMG_7820
IMG_7790
IMG_7792
IMG_7796
IMG_7807
IMG_7806 (1)
IMG_7805
IMG_7804
IMG_7799
IMG_7801
IMG_7808
IMG_7821
IMG_9231 (1)
Version 2
11651210_10153341361844034_752553386_n
IMG_7881
IMG_7882
IMG_7879
IMG_7877
IMG_7873
IMG_7860
IMG_7836
Version 2
IMG_7862
IMG_7865
IMG_7833
IMG_7844
IMG_7843
IMG_7846
Version 2
IMG_7853
IMG_7856
IMG_7855
IMG_7854
IMG_7868

LOVED, LOVED, LOVED Camping and hiking the Cies Islands.  Until next time…

IMG_7866
IMG_7869
IMG_7870
IMG_7871

Seven Secrets Venice Shared

IMG_0451

And now we welcome the new year. Full of things that have never been.–Rainer Maria Rilke

I preferred one waltz with a beauty to a lifetime with someone less rare.–Marlena de Blasi, author of A Thousand Days in Venice: An Unexpected Romance

I wondered if I’d feel the same after seven years, Venice. Were the times proof that you are my first love or just flings? And there have been so many others. Like Casanova, you have had throngs of lovers; for me, your rival was only St. Petersburg last year.
Each time you pulled me close with seductive strength but stayed guarded. Dignified, decadent, detached. Silently allured me to taste your beauty, to wander your world, to seek and find exactly what my soul craved. You led me down streets that ended, forcing me to retreat and start over. Or were you teaching me to find other paths?  Promises, then departures; neither ever felt permanent.  You’re the romance of unrequited love, the sighs of all that’s unfulfilled and ever longed for. The ecstasy in the moment and the promise that maybe one day…
IMG_0296
And then I saw you, poignantly the night before New Year’s Eve–a time to look back and  peer forward–as I stood on the deck of the water taxi. You appeared through the mist and cold.   Luminous and lavish.  Still standing.  And I?  Still feeling.  Alive.
IMG_0306 - Version 2
You are no Don Juan. Like Elizabeth who married England, you carry a great burden for all who love you. With grace buoyed by hope and faith, you beckon us to enjoy the time left on this earth before all goes under.
IMG_0334 - Version 2
And yes, Venice. Though I fell in love with Saint Petersburg last March, you seem to be still The One.
IMG_0320 - Version 2
An Italian friend once told me I’m simpatica—that I understand what it means to live The Life and that I’m a woman meant for a Grande Amore.  I was definitely fashioned from birth a romantic, and the entire country of Italy has always felt like a soul mate. With many questions in 2016 looming, returning to a place that is meant to be wandered was, like the “fit” that is Morocco, a choice made for me, not by me.
Some call it serendipity, others destiny. I call it God. Marrakesh was exactly what I needed when I stepped off the plane sixteen months ago. Starting 2015 with the loves of my life, Taylor and Cole, in London was the best NYE ever– a blessed beginning of one of the most amazing years I’ve ever experienced. And likewise, watching fireworks from the Bridge of Sighs— choosing to exhale in trust and love rather than weariness and worry—I watched 2016 light up the sky.  A sight I’ll remember the rest of my life.
IMG_0465
IMG_0445
I knew I’d love hearing church bells and Buon Anno spoken in the most beautiful language on earth.  How do I love thee, Italy? Let me count the ways.
IMG_0373
Paradoxically,  Venice is unified by bridges and divided by dead ends. As with life, without warning a seemingly good road can suddenly plunge one into dark depths.  Or maybe each halt teaches the art of retracing, rethinking, then rerouting a new course.
IMG_0364
The Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs named by Lord Byron in the 19th century, is a place of blissful beginnings and tragic ends. Prisoners who crossed the Rio di Palazzo to the Doge’s Palace prison were said by the poet to sigh as they looked upon Venice’s beauty a final time. Yet couples who kiss on a gondola under the same bridge at sunset as St. Mark’s bells toll are said to be blessed with eternal love.
IMG_0367
Italy and life abroad continue to teach me.  Here’s seven secrets Venice shared for 2016…
 1)  Wandering can do wonders for the soul.
“Not all those who wander are lost.”–J. R. R. Tolkien

IMG_0497

‘It was one of those architectural wholes towards which, in any other town, the streets converge, lead you and point the way. Here it seemed to be deliberately concealed in a labyrinth of alleys, like those palaces in oriental tales to which mysterious agents convey by night a person who, taken home again before daybreak, can never again find his way back to the magic dwelling which he ends by supposing that he visited only in a dream.’–Marcel Proust

Like the Marrakech medina, Venice is constructed as a medieval maze of mystery and adventure.  Jasna and I  enjoy wandering both.  I’ve learned since moving to Morocco that when I let go and relax, God always brings peace and sometimes the world brims with bliss.   So when Jasna pointed at the Giudecca Canal restaurant and said, “Let’s eat there, it’s pretty”– neither of us having any idea we had chosen for lunch a historical literary hub– I accept it not as a coincidence, but as a gift.  Both English majors, we were thrilled to learn that Hotel La Calcina, (aka Ruskin’s House) was where creatives such as John Ruskin (who I studied in a Victorian prose graduate course) lived and Ranier Maria Rilke (one of my favorite writers), Marcel Proust, Bortolo Giannelli, Giuseppe Berto and Francesco Maria Piave gathered. A muse to many, Venice fed free spirited expats Lord Byron, Robert Browning, Truman Capote, Ezra Pound, Ernest Hemingway, Charles Dickens, and Thomas Mann and continues to inspire art today. A magical place to christen a new year of writing.
IMG_0392 - Version 2
IMG_0389
IMG_0254
IMG_0386

J 2

Jasna

2)   Trust the journey. Relax, wait, move, live passionately patient in faith and hope. 

“I beg you, to have patience with everything unresolved in your heart and to try to love the questions themselves as if they were locked rooms or books written in a very foreign language. Don’t search for the answers, which could not be given to you now, because you would not be able to live them. And the point is to live everything. Live the questions now. Perhaps then, someday far in the future, you will gradually, without even noticing it, live your way into the answer.”–Ranier Maria Rilke

IMG_0404

Christmas peace out


IMG_0353
IMG_0324
IMG_0329
 3)  “All great art is praise.” –John Ruskin
IMG_0408
IMG_0489
 
IMG_0545
IMG_0535
IMG_0361
4)    Be true to who you are and the One who designed you that way.  We are colorful creatures all.

IMG_0479

IMG_0486

IMG_0409

IMG_0436

IMG_0439

Waiting for 2016

IMG_0440

IMG_0441

5)  Con Dio tutto è possibile. (With God all things are possible.) 

Dream lofty dreams, and as you dream, so shall you become. –John Ruskin

IMG_0351

Now to him who is able to do immeasurably more than all we ask or imagine, according to his power that is at work within us.–Ephesians 3:20

In Venice everything seems possible.  I’m grateful for Anu’s invitation.  She’d  made plans to be there a week in an affordable hostel she found 4 minutes from St. Mark’s Square.  Jasna flew from England and I from Marrakesh to join her a couple of days.  My round trip ticket was $125–and our  triple room cost me 57 Euros per night.  And though December hit me hard with new challenges and I questioned my decision to go, I knew I may never spend New Year’s Eve in Venice again– particularly at such a price.  Thus, I moved forward  with plans prayed over and made in good faith.  I refused to let regret rob me of joy.  I let go and received the gifts of the trip from the moment a kind Italian man grabbed my suitcase as I was running to find a train to the last night when Anu invited me to dinner with her Italian family–sweetest people ever.

IMG_0422
IMG_0424
I highly recommend Casa per Ferie La Pietà, more a hotel than a hostel, with a panoramic view from the terrace, a beautiful breakfast room, clean accommodations, and nice people.  I’d never stayed on the island before–usually too expensive–but here there is no commute by water taxis.  The three of us stayed in a huge room with restrooms/showers across and down the hall.  It is quiet, family friendly, and a great place to escape alone or meet other travelers.

IMG_0346

View from our room–one bridge from The Bridge of Sighs


IMG_0462

Anu


IMG_0455

Terrace view


IMG_0271
IMG_0336
6)   La Dolce Vita (The Sweet Life) is family, friends, food and fun.

Taste and see that the Lord is good.

Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.–Truman Capote

IMG_0355

IMG_0365

IMG_0427

IMG_0429

IMG_0433

Spritz Veneziano, an aperitif made of Prosecco wine, Campari, apple, and sparkling mineral water


 
IMG_0473

Christening running shoes with Prosecco on New Year’s Day


IMG_0242
IMG_0548

Prashanth, Anu, Carmen, Sandro, and Marta


 7)  Dum Spiro Spero (While I breathe, I hope.)
Marta (pictured above and expecting her first child) told me her parents’ love story.  Her mother, Carmen, met her father, Sandro, in Peru in 1981 when they were both students climbing Machu Picchu with friends.  After three days together, each returned home–Carmen to Argentina and Sandro to Italy.  Because she didn’t speak Italian and he didn’t speak Spanish, they wrote letters in French.  In October Sandro returned to visit her family.  After fifteen days with her (plus the three in January), he proposed.  They married, she moved with him to the lake district of Italy near Como, and they’ve been happy since.  Oh how I do love a good love story.
IMG_0407 - Version 2
IMG_0375
In Germany I let go of fear.  In Venice I remembered again all is well and will be well.  In 2015 God gave me the desires of my heart–beauty, adventure, and love of family and friends.  And though His love is all I need, He gave me the confidence to dare to dream…to believe again… that  somewhere in 2016 my Grande Amore, whoever he is, awaits.

“I don’t pretend to understand these feelings, but I’m willing to let the inexplicable sit sacred.” –Marlena de Blasi

Happy 2016…and for all my images of Venice and other destinations, please go to my photography site at cindymccain.photoshelter.com.

IMG_0467

IMG_0368